“To be Peruvian is to celebrate the greatness of ceviche,” Gastón Acurio (Cebiche Power, 2015).
In December 2023, UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, meeting in Kasane, Botswana, inscribed the preparation and consumption of Peruvian ceviche[1] in the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Ceviche represents the archetype of one of the keys to the Peruvian gastronomic revolution: differentiation through its cultural and demographic diversity throughout its territory. How did ceviche manage to reach such a distinguished position in world gastronomy? And how did Peruvian cuisine come to occupy a privileged place in international haute cuisine?
In the study “Analysis of Innovation in the Gastronomic Sector of Peru” we show how the revolution of Peruvian gastronomy came about from a succession of inventions introduced by experimental and conceptual innovators motivated by the search for differentiation from other cuisines of the world. This was based on the use of the great variety of local inputs, the return to the origins and the Peruvian cultural identity. One of the fundamental ingredients of the recipe for this revolution are the highly qualified cooks, who constantly innovate based on the Peruvian identity and its cultural roots.
The main standard bearers of the cuisine highlight the importance of culture in the development of their gastronomy. As sociologist and chef Isabel Álvarez Novoa, who with her mother co-founded the restaurant El Señorío de Sulco – currentlyrun by her son, chef Flavio Solorzano – states in the study, “you have to understand that cuisine itself is culture. It is the product of centuries. […] We have one of the richest seas. We have extraordinary biodiversity. The cuisines that have been born in Peru are home cooking, very well done. […] The picanterías are the primal space, the DNA of Peruvian cuisine, and then comes the regional, with the whole process of cultural mixing.”
An example of the impact of the culture and population diversity of the Peruvian territory – where fishermen, farmers and cooks come together – on gastronomy lies in the great variety of one of Peru’s most emblematic dishes: ceviche. The basic ingredients for its preparation are generally the same: fish (or some other seafood), onion, lemon and chili. “Four pillars on which the majesty and force of this dish rests,” says chef Gastón Acurio, father of the Peruvian gastronomic revolution, in his book Cebiche Power. “Everyone thinks they are the owners of the best recipe and around that fruitless discussion they live, cook and enjoy. The truth is that each ceviche is a reflection of what the sea and the garden provide in each environment, of local customs and rites…”, he points out.
Peruvian cultural diversity is also present in the menus they designed at restaurant Central, led by chefs Virgilio Martínez and Pía León, through Mater Iniciativa, their multidisciplinary research center. Malena Martínez, director of the center, explains: “We began to offer a tasting menu that was to consume the ecosystems of Peru. It consisted of a journey through the Peruvian territory in which you traveled through the different altitudes, and each dish was a different altitude and a different ecosystem. But it’s also socially different.” Based on this innovative proposal, Central was chosen as the best restaurant in the world in 2023 by the global review “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants“.
According to Virgilio Martínez, to prepare ceviche perfectly there are two fundamental rules: “Use fresh ingredients and prepare it a few minutes before serving.” This philosophy has led many chefs to establish direct collaborations with artisanal fishermen, following a modality known as “sea to table”.
According to chef Flavio Solorzano, fishermen realized that both restaurants and the end consumer demand better quality. This led to a significant change: fishermen began to deliver higher quality fish, with the possibility of setting higher prices due to excellence in conservation. Today, numerous suppliers, fishermen and associations go to great lengths to ensure that fish arrives in the kitchen as fresh as possible, allowing chefs to decide how to transform it into a unique culinary experience.
By highlighting the importance of maintaining a schedule and respecting fishing bans, Solorzano reveals his dedication at El Señorío de Sulco to guarantee the quality and sustainability of marine products. This approach translates into rigor in the acceptance of specific sizes and calibers, guaranteeing a culinary experience committed to sustainability.
Based on the premise that incentives are key to innovation, as indicated in our publication, we point to the need for public policies to promote changes aimed at:
1. Encouraging investment in human capital, both for formal education and on-the-job training.
2. Enabling domestic and international tourism, taking advantage of the complementarity between the country’s great tourist attractions (Machu Picchu) and gastronomy.
3. Facilitating the development of communities, or associations, where knowledge is shared at all levels and synergies within the sector are enhanced.
Ceviche, as part of the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, embodies the richness of the cultural and demographic diversity that defines Peruvian gastronomy. This article celebrates not only ceviche as a culinary treasure, but also as a symbol of cultural richness and the constant pursuit of excellence in Peruvian gastronomic innovation. Let’s toast! ¡Contigo Perú, contigo ceviche!
[1] According to the Royal Spanish Academy, there are different spellings depending on geographic prefences, including cebiche, ceviche, sebiche andseviche. All of them are valid and are recorded in the academic dictionary.
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