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Gastronomy as a Catalyst for Urban Development

August 22, 2024 por Alejandro López Lamia - Mikel Sáez de Vicuña Leave a Comment

Este artículo está también disponible en / This post is also available in: Spanish


The link between gastronomy and urban development is fascinating, especially when culinary districts drive new urban trends and renewed socioeconomic, cultural, and environmental processes. Thus, gastronomy becomes more than a means of survival. It turns into the art of good eating and living. It is a common thread that weaves stories and identities, creating a colorful tapestry that shapes an essential part of the urban idiosyncrasy and even an entire country. In this blog, we will explore for the first time this linkage in Latin America and the Caribbean (LAC), which has echoes beyond its borders.

La Condesa, Ciudad de México

An Engine of Local Economic Growth

Gastronomy is not just about culinary nostalgia or unknown pleasures to be discovered. It is a significant economic force. The recently named “gastro-economy,”  which includes food production and distribution, restaurants, bars, mobile food services, beverage industries, and tourism, creates numerous jobs, stimulates social entrepreneurship, and boosts regional economies. Culinary festivals also attract people from all walks of life, generating significant revenues for the public coffers and the hospitality, retail, and related industries. For example, in Mexico, gastronomy employs more than 1.7 million people, making it one of the most powerful sectors of the national economy (6.5% of GDP). In Brazil, it creates employment for almost 6 million people, representing 6.2% of GDP. In Peru, it generates more than 4% of GDP and 400,000 direct and indirect jobs.

Fuente: Alerta Económica, Consultora Maximixe (2023).

Investors and municipal authorities are not just recognizing but actively promoting the potential of gastronomy as a catalyst for urban development. Their initiatives are the driving force behind the creation of gastronomic districts, turning neglected neighborhoods into vibrant hubs of culinary creativity and cultural exchange. These districts, such as Roma and Condesa in Mexico City, Miraflores and Barranco in Lima, and Palermo and Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires, are examples of this transformation. They illustrate the intertwined relationship between gastronomy and economic development, leading to a revitalized urban socio-cultural experience. However, it’s important to note that these districts also bring about a general increase in property values, conflicts in public management, and processes of gentrification in food culture or “gourmetization.” These are crucial aspects that we will delve into in a future blog.

A Taste of Identity

Some LAC cities, as in other parts of the world, boast culinary peculiarities by fusing ethnic traditions with the influences of their past and the creativity of contemporary cuisine, reflecting a rich tradition and new idiosyncrasies. From the bustling street food stalls in Mexico City to the quaint jerk chicken grills in Kingston to the vibrant cevicherias of Lima, gastronomy becomes quintessential in these charming places. What’s more, when locals and tourists stroll in a city, they almost always want to embark on a culinary adventure in search of local delicacies. Who could resist a scrumptious parrillada in Buenos Aires or Montevideo, a delicious feijoada in Rio de Janeiro, or the spectacular conch fritters of Nassau? These gastronomic trips become fond memories and part of each city’s imaginary and peculiar attraction.

Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires

A Unique Atmosphere to Share Experiences and Ideas

Gastronomy is an exceptional social connector. Whether it’s a family dinner, a business lunch, or a gathering among friends, good food sharing strengthens human bonds and the exchange of experiences and ideas. Moreover, bustling food markets become meeting points where traditions, lives, and communities intertwine. At Santiago’s Mercado Central, the Mercado 9 de Octubre in Cuenca, or the Queen’s Park Savannah Food Court in Port of Spain, the aroma of spices, the colors of fruits and vegetables, the sizzle of food being prepared, and the lively conversations with customers create a unique atmosphere. They generate a sense of belonging and pride for the local population.

In this way, gastronomy builds bridges, allowing residents and visitors alike to compare and appreciate diverse customs. Unsurprisingly, cities with varied gastronomic offers foster broader social ties, becoming a testimony to the power of food as a factor of positive social interaction. However, a balance must be struck between so-called “gastrotourism” and the needs of residents. The gastronomic districts in vogue tend to attract tourism, which, in turn, can lead to overcrowding, traffic congestion, and a disproportionate strain on existing infrastructure. This is where community involvement becomes crucial. It is essential to ensure that the development of these dining centers benefits residents and preserves the heritage and environmental legacy.

Mercado 9 de Octubre, en el Centro Histórico de Cuenca, Rehabilitado con un Préstamo del BID.

In Search of the Recipe for Sustainability

Cities globally face several challenges, especially climate change, food waste, and food security. Cities and sustainable gastronomy in LAC can contribute to mitigating some of these challenges and achieving the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

The Basque Culinary Center (BCC), a pioneer institution in the promotion and development of gastronomy, in collaboration with the Ibero-American General Secretariat (SEGIB), present in this document how gastronomy can contribute to the fulfillment of the Sustainable Development Goals in Latin America, highlighting its impact on the economy, culture, health and environment (BCC & SEGIB, 2020).

Farm-to-table movements promote using locally sourced ingredients, reducing the production-destination path, carbon footprint, and ultra-processed foods. In turn, constructing community rooftop gardens and orchards or measures to promote urban biodiversity make cities greener and more livable. Sustainable practices, such as beekeeping and urban gardening or the strengthening of the market network, increase the resilience of food systems in LAC. When a city increases its capacity to produce food, it is less vulnerable to supply chain disruptions. Moreover, programs to reduce waste or food waste, as well as support for economies in neighboring rural areas, positively impact the environment and overall well-being, ensuring greater access to affordable and nutritious food and food security, a strategic issue for our Bank. Incredibly, in the countries of our region that have achieved international culinary success, a significant portion of the population suffers from hunger or malnutrition.

Granjas comunitarias en los techos de Bogotá.

Before Paying the Bill

Let’s not forget that the relationship between gastronomy and urban development is dynamic and multifaceted. Gastronomic districts can foster a city’s economic, social, cultural, and environmental development. Gastronomy is not just what we have on our plates. It is also stories, memories, and connections. By better understanding and managing that relationship, cities can harness their potential to drive greater sustainability, preserve cultural heritage, and foster vibrant, inclusive communities. Thus, we must recognize the value of gastronomy as a “catapulting” element, primarily when it is anchored to the territory and the needs of its people. To this end, it is paramount that we understand and work in environments where culinary innovation and urban development go hand in hand. ¡Buen Provecho!               


Filed Under: Sustainable development, Urban economics

Alejandro López Lamia

Alejandro López-Lamia trabaja como staff en el BID desde hace más de 20 años. Actualmente es Especialista Principal en la División de Desarrollo Urbano y Vivienda (HUD), Departamento de Cambio Climático y Desarrollo Sostenible (CSD). Ha desempeñado diferentes funciones en las áreas operativas y estratégicas del Banco en Estados Unidos, Honduras, Ecuador y Bolivia. Actualmente se desempeña como Coordinador de la Cartera de HUD en la sede del BID en Washington DC. Antes del Banco, se desempeñó como docente e investigador en Argentina. La mayor parte de sus estudios académicos los realizó en Japón, con una beca del Ministerio de Educación (Monbusho). Tiene una maestría y un doctorado. en Relaciones Internacionales y Políticas Públicas de Desarrollo de la Universidad de Sophia, en Tokio.

Mikel Sáez de Vicuña

Mikel Sáez de Vicuña Blanco works as a Communication Strategy Consultant in the Housing and Urban Development Division, within the Climate Change and Sustainable Development sector of the Inter-American Development Bank (IDB). He combines his passion for sustainability with over 10 years of experience in communication and innovation to promote sustainable urban development in Latin America and the Caribbean. Holds a BA in Corporate Communication from the University of Deusto in San Sebastián (Spain), and an Honors Program distinction for his specialization in International Relations from the University of Groningen (RUG), in the Netherlands. During his Master's in Strategic Integration, Monitoring, and Communication of the 2030 Agenda and the SDGs at the University of the Basque Country, he was selected for the unicitiES 2030 project, an initiative supported by the Ministry of Universities and inspired by the City Studio methodology. This project fosters the development of work aligned with the needs of cities to co-create solutions and contribute to sustainable urban transformation by addressing specific challenges to achieve climate neutrality. Mikel has led communication initiatives in various global organizations, including Microsoft at its headquarters in Brussels. He has also collaborated with international organizations such as the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) with focus on creating strategies that not only generate positive impact but also foster alliances with local communities.

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Este es el blog de la División de Vivienda y Desarrollo Urbano (HUD) del Banco Interamericano de Desarrollo. Súmate a la conversación sobre cómo mejorar la sostenibilidad y calidad de vida en ciudades de América Latina y el Caribe.

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